Category: Good local place.
Verdict: Very good burgers with lots of design-your-own freedom. A nice homey feel within the modernist decor.
The Counter is on Alpharetta Road in Roswell. As you can see, it's in a very modern location---think postmodern burger. Inside, the vibe is chrome modern with surfing decorations. But the place is, underneath the decor, a traditional luncheon counter. It actually has a counter, a relative rarity among new restaurants, where teenagers sit to talk and eat their burgers.
The Counter emphasizes the build-your-own-burger theme. They seem to have been at it for several years, putting them toward the leading edge of the Great Burger Revival that is sweeping our great nation. I tried a burger with bleu cheese (I've become a huge fan of bleu cheese burgers), peanut sauce, and fried onions. I really enjoyed the peanut sauce, which went well with everything else but isn't something you find on burgers every day. The meat itself was fine. The burger experience as a whole was pleasant but not truly revolutionary. When I had the organic burger at Flip or the Meers Store in Oklahoma, I knew I was in the presence of a superior burger. That's not the case here, but this does seem like one of the best burger places in the area. It was also a little pricey, as one might expect for a postmodern burger, with the burger and tea going for just over $10 before tip.