Kansas City: Arthur Bryant's Barbeque

In the 1970's, the writer Calvin Trillin called Arthur Bryant's possibly the world's best restaurant. That was enough for me to divert my cross-country drive to visit Kansas City and, in particular, a low-key brick building. What I found there was a revelation. Their spectacular barbeque was the result of a team of people with clear devotion to their craft, which they pursued with quiet pride and without a hint of glamor.

It took me 35 years, but I finally made it back. I have had Mr. Bryant's famous sauce quite a few times over the years, but it took this sandwich to drive home that it was made for pork shoulder. The pairing of their tender pork with this cumin-laced sauce is a perfect wedding of flavors. If you are lucky enough to make it here, this is the dish I suggest.

The ribs are great. The meat responds to a gentle tug to come off the bone. Eating these ribs is a rewarding experience.

The onion rings are fantastic: big, crunchy, soft on the inside. By the way, Mr. Bryant's prices are very reasonable. They would be fair even if the dishes weren't huge.

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