Nuevo Cantina Laredo

Nuevo Cantina Laredo is not that easy to find. It's buried in the West side industrial district, across the street from the Pepsi bottling plant. (You can guarantee that the Pepsi bottler will be hard to find in this town.) Even so, it's always crowded. I tried it for dinner for the first time the other night and barely got a table without waiting at 5:20 PM. I've been there for lunch several times and have had to wait every time.

I couldn't make up my mind, so I ordered the chicken mole and a side tamale. The mole sauce is just right, with the chocolate and savory tastes well balanced. The tamale is quite good. I've had tamales hand made by someone's grandmother that were better, but this had the corn wrapper and was overall very good. My neighbors at the next table suggested the lobster, which gives me an excuse to go back soon.

Although I certainly enjoy exotic dishes, I don't eat them every day. What I find most satisfying day in and day out is food that tastes like someone's mother made it. Nuevo Cantina Laredo fits that bill. The food is hearty, full of taste, and always the way it should be. It's been around forever and I expect it to still be here when I retire.

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