In the 1970's, the writer Calvin Trillin called Arthur Bryant's possibly the world's best restaurant. That was enough for me to divert my cross-country drive to visit Kansas City and, in particular, a low-key brick building. What I found there was a revelation. Their spectacular barbeque was the result of a team of people with clear devotion to their craft, which they pursued with quiet pride and without a hint of glamor.
It took me 35 years, but I finally made it back. I have had Mr. Bryant's famous sauce quite a few times over the years, but it took this sandwich to drive home that it was made for pork shoulder. The pairing of their tender pork with this cumin-laced sauce is a perfect wedding of flavors. If you are lucky enough to make it here, this is the dish I suggest.
The ribs are great. The meat responds to a gentle tug to come off the bone. Eating these ribs is a rewarding experience.
The onion rings are fantastic: big, crunchy, soft on the inside.
By the way, Mr. Bryant's prices are very reasonable. They would be fair even if the dishes weren't huge.
Luella's is a nouvelle BBQ outfit on the north side of Asheville. It is nestled among the trees in a lovely neighborhood. The restaurant has lots of windows for inside seating and plenty of outside seating. Service was courteous and amazingly fast. This is a combination plate with pork and brisket. Both were very moist and tender. For the pork, I tried both the mild and hot vinegar sauces. To my surprise, I preferred the milder one because it didn't assert itself too much. I enjoyed the spicy tomato sauce for my brisket. The hushpuppies were very good. The fried okra was fresh out of the fryer and excellent. The slaw was of the vinegary variety, which I usually enjoy, but this version is heavy on the white stuff and didn't have quite enough variety in tastes for me.




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